Moisturizers creams, lotions, oils work by attracting
and trapping moisture and oil in the skin, leaving it
soft and supple. They remove the dull, ashen appearance
of dry skin that many women of color are prone to. A
good moisturizer will also serve as a barrier between
your skin and the elements, such as harsh wind and
pollution.
Choosing the right moisturizer is key to keeping skin
smooth while not clogging pores. Moisturizers come in a
variety of types, including ones that are oil-based,
water-based, oil-free, and vitamin-enriched. To choose
the best moisturizer for you, you'll need to consider
your skin type and seasonal change.
For Oily Skin. Women with oily skin can typically forgo
a moisturizer. Yes, despite what your mother may have
taught you, moisturizers will not prevent wrinkles and
you will normally not need moisturizer unless your skin
gets dry in the winter. In that case, opt for an
oil-free formula that hydrates the skin. Consider
products containing glycerin or other humectants that
draw moisture to skin without clogging pores or
imparting a greasy feel to the skin (Fashion Fair Oil
Free Moisturizer).
For Combination Skin. Apply a light lotion once or twice
a day to the dry areas of the skin only. You will
probably not need to apply the moisturizer to the
fore-head and nose, which are typically oily. During the
summer, switch to an oil-free product, such as Black
Opal Oil Free Moisturizing Lotion, or eliminate it
altogether.
For Normal Skin. You do not need to moisturize unless
your skin becomes dry in winter or in certain climates.
In that case, use an oil-free moisturizer like Black
Opal Oil Free Moisturizing Lotion.
For Dry Skin. Moisturize two or three times a day,
depending on your needs and your skin on a given day.
During the fall and winter, use a rich cream or lotion
designed for dry skin (Lancome Absolute Replenishing
Creme SPF 15, Cetaphil Moisturizing Cream, Lubriderm
Daily UV Lotion SPF 15, MD Forte Replenish Hydrating
Cream Hydra Sorbet Aquatique, Moisturel Therapeutic
Cream). Switch to a lighter lotion in the spring and
summer. Avoid products containing vitamin A or retinol,
which can further dry the skin. Also, steer clear of
greasy products (Vaseline) that can clog pores,
especially if your skin is acne prone.
For Sensitive Skin. Follow the guide for oily, dry, or
combination skin, but choose your moisturizer carefully.
A water based formula may be best. Avoid ingredients
that can irritate your skin, such as alcohol, lanolin,
retinol, vitamin A, PABA sunscreen, or fragrance.
Products to try include Cetaphil Moisturizing Lotion,
Keri Sensitive Skin, Lubriderm Seriously Sensitive
Lotion, and Neutrogena Moisture for Sensitive Skin.
For Hyperpigmenting Skin. In general, moisturizing
hyperpigmentation prone skin whether it's dry,
combination, or sensitive is important because excessive
dryness of this type of skin can lead to itching,
scratching, and discolorations. However, when selecting
moisturizers it's best to avoid products with added
ingredients such as vitamins, exfoliating acids (AHAs,
BHAs) , and benzoyl peroxide unless you patch test your
skin with these products. Those extra ingredients have
the potential for inflaming the skin and then producing
further hyperpigmentation. In other words, less is more.
However, a moisturizer containing sunscreen, such as
Olay Complete UV Protective Moisture Lotion or Aveeno
Positively Radiant Daily Moisturizer SPF 15, may be
beneficial in preventing suninduced pigmentation. When
selecting moisturizers for this type of skin, follow the
guidelines for sensitive skin
Extras
Many moisturizers on the market contain a host of
additional ingredients you may or may not need. These
include the following.
Vitamins. Vitamin enriched products typically contain
either vitamin CorE. These ingredients are considered
antioxidants and may be beneficial for reducing sun
damage and improving the appearance or the skin.
Although preliminary studies may indicate improvement in
the appearance of the skin with these products, many of
the claimed benefits have not yet been proved
definitively.
Vitamin A and retinol are often included in products for
their anti aging and anti wrinkling properties. These
products are beneficial in many cases, but excessive
dryness and irritation of the skin can occur. Consult
your dermatologist before selecting these products.
Additional supplements often included in skin-care
products include coenzyme Ql0, Kinerase, niacin, copper
peptides, and alpha lipoic acid. These ingredients are
touted for their possible anti aging properties and may
improve the skin's appearance in some women.
Alphahydroxy acids (AHAs). These acids exfoliate the top
layer of skin. AHAs can reduce sun damage and acne and
leave the skin with a wonderful glow, but overuse could
irritate skin. I particularly like the MD Forte line of
AHA products.
Sunscreen. Choosing a moisturizer containing sunscreen
cuts out one step in your daily routine. The sunscreen
should have an SPF of at least 15 in order to be
effective.
Moisturizer Moves
To moisturize your facial skin effectively
• Apply the product directly onto damp skin after
washing your face or showering. This way, the water is
literally sealed into the top layers of your skin.
• Using your fingers, dot the moisturizer on forehead,
cheeks, nose, and chin to ensure even distribution, then
blend in.
DRY-SKIN TIP
Take shorter showers at lukewarm temperature. Then apply
moisturizer directly onto damp skin.
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